Emergency Pipe Repairs
By Bryan James | Updated on 01/03/26
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Much of my career has been spent operating or supervising the operations of critical systems. Frequently these systems could not be secured for long periods of time or at all. Under these conditions creativity was required to stop or minimize leaks that were a danger to personnel and destructive to equipment. Below are the most useful techniques we employed for effectively and quickly minimizing pipe leaks.
Cut Flange Face
Cut Flange Face
I am not an engineer and I do not recommend this repair for anyone that has another option. This is only to relate my personal experience utilizing this method on several occasions to repair steam cut flanges on systems up to 1000 psi and 500 degrees F with zero leakage seen for the duration of operations afterwards. That being said, it's not a miracle cure. We only used this for flanges that had small channels in them, not giant holes. For small defects that can't be fixed until later this patch can get you through. If you don't understand any part of the instructions below, this repair is probably not for you. Also, this repair can not be done while the system is online.
What You'll Need
What You'll Need
Tools
Tools
Hammer
Razor Blade
Saw (can get by with razor)
Materials
Materials
Lead
Instructions
Instructions
- Cut Lead to Size
Cut a small piece of lead that will fit over the steam cut channel in your flange. You want it to be large enough to fill the channel but not so large that you will need to cut a lot off when you are shaving it flat, (see step 3).
If you have a saw that may be easier to use. Otherwise score the lead with your razor and then work the point back and forth. The blade will eventually work through the lead. DO NOT use a grinder as it will create lead dust that can be inhaled.
2. Hammer Lead Flat
2. Hammer Lead Flat
Taking care not to damage the flange face, gently hammer the lead into the steam cut portion of the flange. A brass mallet is ideal but a regular hammer will work.
3. Shave off excess lead
3. Shave off excess lead
Once the lead has been hammered fully into the cut, use a razor blade to shave off any extra lead so that the repair is flush with the flange face.
4. Reassemble Flange
4. Reassemble Flange
Reinstall your gasket material and bolt your flange faces back together. The pressure from the gasket material and opposing flange face should hold the lead in place and seal your leak.
On a Pipe
On a Pipe
Pipe leaks can be particularly difficult to patch when on elbows, butt joints or irregularly shaped sections. Ideally you have a split bolt clamp or repair sleeve specifically designed for your conditions. This repair is for when you don't. Again, I am not an engineer and I do not recommend this repair for anyone that has another option. We were able to utilize this type of repair to significantly reduce pinhole leaks if not completely stop them on systems up to 1000 psi and 500 degrees F. For small defects that can't be fixed until later this patch can get you through. These repairs can be done online, however, they should not be and I highly recommend against it if you have any other option.
What You'll Need
What You'll Need
Tools
Tools
Hammer
Razor Blade
Screw or nut driver
Materials
Materials
Low Temperature Fluids
Hose clamp
Rubber (High grade electrical tape can work as well)
Soda Can
Possibly a slightly larger diameter pipe cut in half
Add for High Temperature Fluids
Lead
High Temperature Rubber (if medium at high temperature)
Instructions
Instructions
- Assess the Leak
Determine how you are going to go about your repair. A hose clamp, piece of rubber, and a soda can may be all you need to take care of a small leak on the side of a straight leg of pipe. As the pressure, temperature, and geometric complexity increase, however, so too will the difficulty of the repair.
2. Simple Repairs (P<80 psi)
2. Simple Repairs (P<80 psi)
Use Electrical tape. Rubber tape works the best but standard will work.
Note: The water pressure in a house ranges from 40-80psi.
If the above doesn't work, Either try again or move to the next step.
3. Simple Repairs (80psi > P < 200psi, Straight Pipe)
3. Simple Repairs (80psi > P < 200psi, Straight Pipe)
Cut rubber (appropriate to the temperature of the system) so that it fits around the pipe but leaves about a cm gap.
If using electrical tape wrap it around the pipe as tightly as possible.
Cut soda can so that it is slightly larger than the piece of rubber.
Place rubber and cut piece of can over the leak and use a hose clam placed directly over the leak area to tighten the rubber and can down.
4. Simple Repairs (P>200psi, Straight Pipe)
4. Simple Repairs (P>200psi, Straight Pipe)
As the pressure increases so will the 'strongback' being used to hold the rubber on. Here is where you will need a slightly larger diameter pipe cut in half.
Cut rubber (appropriate to the temperature of the system) so that it fits around the pipe but leaves about a cm gap.
If using electrical tape wrap it around the pipe as tightly as possible.
Place rubber and one of the cut pieces of pipe over the leak. Fit the hose clamp around them and tighten it down. Utilizing both halves of the split pipe may help.
5. Complex Repairs (P>200psi, Complex Geometry)
5. Complex Repairs (P>200psi, Complex Geometry)
For complex geometry and low pressure you can sometimes get away with using electrical tape alone. For high pressure and temperature systems you will need to think creatively and figure out how to compress a chunk of lead into the leak with as much clamping pressure as possible. The leak will channel through the lead eventually but this can significantly reduce the amount.
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